Nottingham, MD Air Conditioning, Heating and Plumbing Services
Supreme Air provides Air Conditioning, Heating and Plumbing Services, Repair, Installation, Maintenance, and Tune Up in Nottingham, MD and surrounding areas.
Check out what some of our customers are saying about Supreme Air.
for Nottingham, MD
Taylor - Nottingham, MD
Louis - Nottingham, MD
Very nnice gentlemen. Came to the door, we exchanged pleasantries and he proceeded to cover his work shoes before entering my house. Great personality.
McCullough - Nottingham, MD
The technician was able to diagnose and solve the problem with our unit that thankfully was covered under our warranty.
McCullough - Nottingham, MD
Daniel, the technician arrived early, completed the check up quickly and provided useful information about the care of our HVAC system.
Response from Supreme Air:
Thank you Michal, we're so pleased to hear back from you about how your check up went. Daniel certainly is efficient and enjoys sharing his knowledge with our customers to help them care for their system. We're looking forward to your next check up during the heating system. Have a supreme day!
Lance - Nottingham, MD
I foolishly thought our thermostat was faulty; Chris' experience led him to look deeper into the situation and realize that a fuse in the furnace needed replacing. Within 20 minutes, the system was up and running. Great job
Service call on 08/12/19 On arrival nothing running thermostat is blank I checked all electrical connections I found low voltage fuse is buzzing customer she is replacing the thermostat she touched 2 low voltage wires together in thermostat and burnt the fuse I gave quote for customer rewire low voltage wires and replaced the low voltage fuse customer accepted the quote repair the fuse rewire thermostat wires and programmed tested start up checked air filter highly recommended air filter needs to be replaced checked blower motor checked all other electrical connections measured supply and return air temp checked outdoor unit checked voltage and amps checked compressor capacitor checked coil checked pressure and temp and they are ideal indicating zero leaks unit operating normal at this time. Collected $418 for repair also customer sign new service agreement collected $16.66 for one month fee total $434.66 on C.Co
On arrival set unit to call for cooling measured supply And return air temp I found 9 degrees DT measured voltage and amps inspected electrical connections checked drain checked air filter I found the air filter customer put wrong way is restriction to the unit I put the filter in right way checked every supply duct connections in attic measured supply and return air temp I found 20 degrees DT checked all other electrical connections unit operating normal at this time. Collected $89 dispatch fee and $124 diagnostic fee I gave customer $-25 discount total $188 on C.C
Replace outdoor start cap and replay ,tested system.unit operating normal
Replace indoor cap tested it ,unit operating normal
On arrival set unit to call for cooling measured supply and return air temp measured voltage and amps inspected electrical connections inspected drain ,coil,Contactor ,caps,found indoor blower cap below 5 uf .also found outdoor unit start cap resistor very rusted.need to replace .please order part .unit is operating normal at this time
There were 2 issues. #1. Liquid line schrader valve stem was leaking heavily and tightening it would not stop. The tamper proof valve cap was barely threaded on the stem. When I replaced the valve core there was no rubber/ plastic washer on the stem. I believe the valve stems were not removed when the lineset was brazed and burnt off. I replaced boiler valve stems and charge the system. While charging the system I found the airflow settings in cooling mode were moving more air than the condensers capacity could handle. I decreased the blower speed in cooling mode to achieve 20 degree delta temperatures across the evaporator coil and normal operating pressures. I did leak search the other fittings to make sure there was not any other leak I was missing. I took a photo of my gauges and temperature clamps to show that the system had lost a significant amount of charge. Unit operating normal. Installed June 30th, 2017. Work covered by 2 years parts and labor warranty.
Upon arrival I was told that ac wasnâ€™t working in office. During diagnostics I found no power at unit, high voltage. Found breaker in off position. Turned on but ac still didnâ€™t cycle on, blower came on normally. Found first circuit has only 15psi static pressure. 2nd Circuit has normal pressures so I jumped out Y2 and tested operation. Found unit operating but will struggle during high temps since 1st circuit not running. Need to do a leak search and repair on system, speculating discharge on compressor.
Completed AC inspection .
On arrival set unit to call for heat,found bad belts .went to supply house and got 2 b36 belts .installed them .unit operating normal at this time
Performed maintenece on all 3 units. Cleaned condenser coils. Inspected Evap coils and blowers. Cleaned out all drains. Tested split condensate pump. Checked contactors and capacitors. Tightened electrical connections. Ran ac on all units. Checked delta air temps and amp draw. Outdoor temp is 50 degrees so couldnâ€™t get a great idea on the refrigerant circuit and how it is operating but ac units seem to be working normally with good delta air temps. Suggesting customer get both rooftop units replaced because they are 30+ years old and could perform better and run more efficiently with newer equipment. Unit 1 has Electric Heat only, not a HeatPump.
I replaced the defrost sensor and the defrost control board. I added just over 1lb of r410a to have operation pressures match data plate. Last time I was here I leaked all fittings and confirmed that there are no system leaks. Unit operating normal.
Coil sensor is faulty and not closing. Heat pump froze up severely several times. I did force defrost and after that the refrigerant pressures were normal and temperature rise was 24-26 degrees. I think itâ€™s best to replace the defrost board and sensors together and called the service manager. I completed a parts order form.
I replaced the heater pack and installed the breakers it came with. I checked the unit for proper operation. Unit operating normal. Customer owes no more for this repair once the previous payment of $440 is applied to the balance. I told customer I will come back on April 9th at 3pm as a courtesy to check the unit in ac mode. I will let the office know to set time for this.
Heater kit needs to be replaced. There is a short somewhere within the 60 amp side. I removed the wires to the 2 elements served by the 60 amp side so that the board still has power but the fuses will not be able to blow. It is of course only heating on heat pump heating and 5 kw of auxiliary heat. Customer approved the repair to replace the heater kit and per Alex, I credited back the amount paid previously. I filled out a parts order form and sent it to the person in the office to order tomorrow. Please reach out to the customer with availability.
Replace blown 60 amp fuse and test the system. I replaced the blown 60 amp bullet fuse and tested the unit. Refrigerant pressures were normal for very low outdoor temperature. Auxiliary heat came on and was pulling normal amps. The unit is operating normal. Customer declined service membership due to them moving from the home soon.
1/3 hp disposal leaking from bottom remove old disposal and replace with new 1/3 hp disposal
I replaced the filters for each unit and the blower belt for unit #1. I operated the units in first stage and auxiliary heat stages. Units have normal temperature rise in first stage and auxiliary heater strips are working properly on each unit. I checked the electrical wiring and electrical systems. The units are operating normal. Unit #1 and #2 are very old and I strongly recommend replacing these units. Unit #2, the smaller tonnage Carrier roof top unit has a faulty disconnect on the roof. I turned the power off to service the system and when I was ready to leave the roof, I noticed it never started working. I removed panels again and had no voltage. I opened the disconnect and had power coming in. I pulled the fuses and they were in tact. I finally concluded that the disconnects teeth do not make good contact with the main voltage when it is turned on. I managed to maneuver the handle and the voltage returned. Ultimately it is not reliable and unsafe for any technician that goes
Replace o ring on single handle shower diverter cartridge